

D/06-07-08 (Sunday)
We started from Simhachalam railway station at 6.30 am by Samata Express bound to Delhi. I wish to express my gratitude to Sri P.Padmakara Rao, friend of Ramakrishna who brought us our breakfast at Vizianagaram and Sri BVR Sanyasi Raju, a friend of mine, who brought us dinner at Mahasamund. Our journey to Delhi was joyful and we got along well as a team. We reached H.Nizamuddin railway station on 07-07-08 at 6pm where we boarded another train, which took us to New Delhi railway station.
D/07-07-08 (Monday)
We boarded Sampark Kranthi Express at 8.30 pm which took us to Jammu on 08-07-08 at 6 am.
D/08-07-08 (Tuesday)
On enquring at Jammu we came to know that this year the yatra convoy started from Bhagavathi Nagar. Jammu city was under curfew for the past 8 days. But we had no difficulty, as yatris were allowed free movement. On reaching Bhagavathi Nagar, we had to wait at a Shiva temple for a few hours as the gates of base camp opened at 2.30 pm. We thank God for providing us with shelter as well as free food. Once got into the base camp we came to know that we could that A.C. accommodation by paying Rs.600/- extra, as it was very hot in Jammu, we immediately agreed. The Authorities took us to J&K Tourism Centre from our camp by a military truck. This J&K Tourism Centre happens to be very close to the famous Raghunath Temple. After freshening up we went to see Shri Raghunath Temple situated in the heart of Jammu. This temple is heavily guarded by CRPF. The main deity Sri Raghunath with Sita mata and Lakshmanji is situated in the center and is surrounded by two level compounds which housed various Gods & Goddesses connected with the epic Ramayana, Dasavatarams, Vaishnodevi, near 1 crore Sivalingas etc.,. The inner walls of the main temple are covered with Gold sheets on three sides. At the temple we can have a glimpse of the magnificent 6 feet Shivaling made of transparent pure crystal. The site of Shivling was awesome. One can view through Shivling. This temple has cloakroom facility and visitors are not allowed to take mobiles, cameras etc., inside, one can deposit one’s possessions in the locker of the cloakroom. We came out of the temple spiritually recharged and heavenly bliss. We wanted to look at the shops near the temple, as we needed to buy our trekking shoes. These shoes cost us Rs.140/- each, but were very useful in the days to come. We were moved on hearing the plight of shopkeepers, who was suffering loses due to imposition of the curfew. They treated us royally and were very helpful. We had very good food at night slept well.
We woke up early in the morning and got ready by 3.30am to reach our base camp by 4.30am. Here, our convoy started at 5 am. Our first destination was to reach Pahalgam base camp by the evening. Enroute Pahalgam, we went through an enchanting journey via Tawi River, Udhampur, Kud (famous for variety of sweets), Patnitop (famous for skiing in winter), Chenab river (which goes to Pakistan), Baglihar Dam, Jawahar Tunnel (2.75kms long, which connects Jammu with Kashmir valley), which was fully guarded by CRPF. We stopped at Bhandaras enroute for breakfast and lunch. One must appreciate the selfless service being done at these bhandaras, which are put up people by various parts of the country. These people serve food with love and lots encouragement to the yatris.
Once we passed through the Jawahar Tunnel, we had the first glimpse of the magnificent Kashmir valley. The picturesque locations are just mind-blowing and we quickly realized why Kashmir is the crown of mother India. The huge mountains, coniferous trees, the meadows, the rivulets, the greenery, the agricultural fields and glaciers, we were spellbound at this visual treat. All of us were clicking our cameras like mad and wishing to capture the nature at its very best. Alas, cameras being cameras, we could not capture the expansion of our consciousness and the spirit of the nature as it was on a huge canvass. One has to go there to get ones fill of the bounties of mother earth. If the creation is so immensely beautiful and indescribable then how can we describe the beauty and the projection of the creator? We can just drown ourselves in his bliss and be happy that he gave us the opportunity and strength to view his magnificent creation.
With all these joy in our bosom we reached Pahalgam. Yet another beautiful place situated on the banks of river Lidder and surrounded by mighty mountains. This was our first base camp from where yatris start yatra to Amarnath Cave. At Pahalgam we booked our tent for Rs.150/- and were provided with an electric lamp, blankets and razois etc.,. We also had hot water and toilet facilities at this base camp, which housed around 1000 tents. This was my first time in my life that I slept in a tent. It was thrilling and I just could not sleep. We had a very huge bhandara here and could get a wide variety of eatables. We met a person from Vijayawada at Bhandara and he fed us with idly, vada, dosa etc., milk with badam and kesar as well as different varieties of sweets were available for free to the yatris. All the people had just one name on their lips “JAI BHOLE”.

(Our tent at pahalgam)

(we start trekking)
D/10-07-08 (Thursday)
Chanting the name of the Lord Shiva we started at 7 am from Pahalgam to Chandanwari (16kms away-9500ft above sea level.). We boarded a tata sumo and engaged 4 pittoos to carry our luggage. Enroute we had a feeling that we were watching a yashraj film as Pahalgam look like Switzerland in India. The Lidder River flows through the lush green valley with glaciers around and beautiful pine & deodar trees, overcoming all the obstacles teaching us the power of continuous effort and resilience in the face of hurdles to reach our goal. At 9 am our trekking started from Chandanwari-a place where Lord Shiva is said to have left the Chandan (Sandalwood paste) enroute Amarnath Cave where he narrated the secret and sacred story of being immortal to Goddess Parvathi.
(Photo: We start trekking at Chandanwadi)Our first challenge was to climb up to Pissu Top (11,500ft above sea level), which is a 3km steep trek along the hill. It is said that to be first to reach for darshan of Lord Shiva, there was a war between devatas and rakshasas, Devatas could kill the rakshas in such large number that the heap of their dead bodies has resulted in this high mountain. This symbolically represents our challenge to cast away our evil tendencies, thoughts and vasanas as a prerequisite to our spiritual journey. Pissu Top is a steep hill with narrow and slippery path. We reached there by 11 am. There was a huge bhandara with a varieties of sweets, jeera rice, chats, noodles etc. Cool drinks as well as juices were distributed for free. There was an orchestra and bhangada dance were organized. Dancing there rejuvenated our spirits. After freshening up we started for our next destination Seshnag Lake.

(Photo: Water gushing through glaciers)
This route again was filled with nature’s beauty. The huge mountains shining in gold colour resembled the hoods of the legendary snake Seshnag. Crossing the waterfalls, glaciers, valleys we reached to a point where we had our first view of Lake Seshnag. We were enthralled to see the calm lake with pure water from glaciers. The lake was greenish blue in colour and stood between three mighty glaciers. The snow capped mountains, clouds and the water this combination left us spell bound. The stillness of the lake had a soothing effect on our minds. This took us to a contemplative state. In order to achieve any spiritual accomplishment having left our evil vasanas, we need an undisturbed and tranquil mind to contemplate on the highest truth. Only a still mind can get absorbed into the consciousness and take us to our Sahaja state (samadhi).


(Photos: View of snow capped mountains from our tents at Seshnag)
Seshnag-a mountain which derives its name from its seven peaks, resembling the heads of the mythical snake.
We reached the camp at Seshnag (12,200ft above sea level) by 5 pm. After settling ourselves in a tent we made telephone calls to our kith & kin via a satellite phone provided by CRPF. The weather there was very cold as we were close to glaciers. We had a magnificent view of snow capped mountains even at 7 pm, as the sun was setting and rays were falling on the mountain tops. Fully exhausted we slept early to rise at 5 am the next day.
D/11-07-08 (Friday) After taking breakfast & tea at a bhandara we started our trekking at 7 am from Seshnag to Panchatarani (12kms). The route was full of magnificent valleys and snow capped mountains. Enroute we reached Mahagunas Top (Ganesh Top) which was 14,800ft above the sea level, as the weather was good we didn’t have any problem with oxygen etc.,. This was the highest peak for entire yatra. We were very proud to see a CRPF camp at that altitude. A special mention of our gratitude towards CRPF would not be out of place as the personnel were posted at these high altitudes where temperature at time reaches below –5 degrees. Our CRPF Jawans were specifically posted to ensure the safety of yatris throughout the route of 36 kms. One gets immense sense of security and confidence upon seeing these people at these unknown and lonely places.

(Photo: Between Mahagunas and Panchtarni)
From Ganesh Top we descended to a place known as Poshpatri where we refreshed ourselves at a bhandara. From Poshpatri we started for Panchatarani (12,000ft above sea level). This is a place where 5 rivers meet and its just 6 kms away from the Holy Cave. We reached Panchatarani at 12 noon. Panchatarani is a picturesque place which gives us a glimpse of all in one package deal. We can view glaciers, rivers, meadows and valleys all at one place. Here we had to face cold winds hence cold creams or Vaseline are very useful for protection of skin. Glucose & dry fruits were very useful here because at times one gets the feeling of nausea, fever and headache etc., but by divine grace none of us as well as most of the yatris had any health related problems.


As this place is very near to the Holy Cave, we decided to continue our journey. We started from Panchatarani at 12.30 pm, it was raining and the route was very narrow and slippery. At times the road was just 2 feet wide and we had to trek very carefully.
One has to climb to higher altitude through the valley before the steep descent starts and then as we approach the Holy Cave we had to walk on glaciers. Walking on snow was very thrilling and exciting. We reached the Holy Place (13,500fr above the sea level) at 2.30 pm and hired a tent which was one km away from the cave. It was cozy and we could get hot water. The first thing that surprised us was the helicopter facility. For every 10 mins there was a chopper carrying yatris from Baltal. We took bath and wore new cloths. We decided to have a darshan of Lord Amarnath. This year the authorities decided against allowing mobile, cameras inside the cave, hence we had to deposit these at a shop.
One has to climb around 380 steps to enter the Holy Cave. The cave is a huge one and we were lucky enough to have a glimpse of the legendary white pigeons. The atmosphere around the cave was very cool and our hearts were thumping with excitement, thrill and divine fervor as we approached a Shivling with the chant of OM NAMAH SHIVAYAH and JAI BHOLE NATH. The ice lingam was 3ft high and was conical in shape. This lingam was 15ft high at the start of yatra but due to more than 2 lakh devotees visiting Amarnath the lingam gradually melted. We prayed to lord Shiva and thanked him for taking care of us during the entire trip and showing his form at Amarnath. We were equally blessed to have a glimpse of Mother Parvathi in the form of another ice lingam in the cave. There was another lingam which represented Lord Ganesh. The site of our heavenly Father & Mother (Shiva & Parvathi) transported us into yet another world of supreme bliss. We started singing whatever hymns we knew and requested for an opportunity of Punar Darshan. The prasad distributed there recharged our body, mind and soul. We forgot all the pains we went through during the arduous trek and we were joyful in the holy presence. As the number of yatris was less we had a second darshan immediately. Here something glorious happened, it started raining and there was sunshine in the opposite direction, we could see a beautiful rainbow which extended from the holy cave to the glacier opposite it. Our heart danced with joy the rainbow reminded us of transcending the Shat Chakras and union with Lord Shiva. Fully satisfied and recharged we descended from the cave to our tent, where we slept peacefully during the night after having our free dinner at a Bhandara.
D/12-07-08 (Saturday)
As the weather conditions are highly unpredictable at Amarnath, we decided to start for the base camp at Baltal. We started at 7 am and hired horses to take us to Baltal. This is 16 kms journey and in a different route. The route to Baltal is full of steep rises and falls. The road is slippery and very narrow. At some places we had to climb down from our horses and walk as it was dangerous. But, even this route is fully protected by CRPF. 3 kms away from the holy cave is a place called Sangam where 3 rivers meet. Some yatris take bath at this place and proceed for darshan. We could only get an arial view of Sangam as we were trekking atop a huge mountain. Here again we had an indescribable joy as we were passing through clouds. We were passing through two huge mountains and river was gushing through the valley and glaciers. Even this place was like paradise on earth. Finally, after 3 hours of trekking, we reached the base camp of Baltal at 10.30 am.
In a nutshell, this Amarnath Yatra represents both physical and symbolic journey-Physical in the sense, we had the darshan of Lord Amarnath and symbolic in the sense, in our quest of immortality (amaratva) and finding our true self we have to transcend all physical, emotional, mental stresses and strains. Facing all these challenges enroute with a firm resolve and single pointed orientation towards the goal of self realization. There would be temporary failures and distractions, but our resolve should be such that we overcome all these with and every increasing enthusiasm and spirit with a smile on lips and chant of Lord’s name to have a glimpse of the lord within us, our immortal self. Jai Amarnath!!
Baltal is the place, from where there is helicopter facility to the cave and all transport facilities to Srinagar (100kms). There is a huge base camp at Baltal and some yatris prefer this route to the holy cave as one can have the Darshan of the Cave and return back to Baltal on the same day. We hired a tata sumo to Srinagar. Enroute, we stopped briefly at Sonamarg, which is enchanting and mind blowing place. It is situated on the banks of River Indus and is on Srinagar-Leh-Kargil highway. It has a military camp. The route taking us to Srinagar abounds with bounties of nature and River Indus (Which flows to Pakistan and famous for Indus Valley Civilisation) followed us. We reached Srinagar the capital of Jammu and Kashmir, situated on Jhelum river, at 2 pm.
Having shared with you my Amarnath Yatra experience I shall get back to you about Srinagar and Vaisno Devi Yatra in the second part.
Yours truly,
A.Gopi Kishan








2 comments:
Spectacular!!
Thank you for taking us thru the entire trip with your spirited commentary!
Nice blog.For more details,you can visit Amarnath Yatra | Amar Nath Yatra
Thanks
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